"Oldtimer"

Roanne, France
"Oldtimer," originally a working barge in The Netherlands transporting grain, was built in 1927 and converted to a live aboard barge in the 1990's. The barge is 16 meters and the style of barge is called a Steilsteven. We are the second owners and have owned the ship since October 2005. We are Americans from Colorado who with our Tibetan Terrier "Tulah" now live in France and "Oldtimer" is our home.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Taking our barge to St Jean de Losne.

The Alp Horn concert in St Jean de Losne


Fabulous sunset on the Saone River.



The Painter! No not Picaso but close. He is standing next to the working barge from hell.


Oldtimer in all her glory on the skids in the slipway.


We had only one "deadline to meet" this year and it was for June 1st on the slipway at Atelier Fluvial. When you own a barge it is necessary, approximately every 5 years, to take the ship out of the water to have the bottom cleaned, checked for thickness of the plating on the bottom and then have the bottom repainted with antifouling paint. Now if you talk to any one who has done this you will hear so many many stories both good and bad about this experience. In fact we were feeling a little left out as we did not have any boatyard stories to tell. The boat had been taken out and surveyed when we bought her but to be honest we did not have a clue as to what we were looking at - really not a clue. So we made our way to St Jean de Losne after we left Seurre on May 25th this year.

We arrived early - 5 days early - so we parked on the "steps" in the town of St Jean de Losne. The weather was good and we waited till we could go into the yard. We arrived at the yard at the designated time and day and were immediately put onto the "skids" that are on a cog rail and hauled out of the water. Such a strange sensation and the barge felt very strange being out of water. Tulah was totally dumbfounded by the whole thing. As is normal with the French there was no declaration of the pending schedule so after several requests for information we were told they would clean the bottom the next morning, then measure the thickness the next day, then paint the first coat the next day and the final and 2nd coat Friday morning - then we were to "rest" in the yard till Monday when they would put us back in the water. What we had failed to remember was that the French are done with work at noon on Friday so there was no question we were to stay in the yard till Monday, suprise suprise. As it was this worked well for us - painting of the remainder of the bottom up to the "rub rail" with our great Dutch Blue color - courtesy of Eric happened over the weekend. So you want to know- what did we do about brushing our teeth and other personal hygiene issues - for us the answer was a local Auberge. Some people stay on their barge and use the bathrooms in the ship yard. My "princess" attitude dictated a bed and shower in the Auberge after spending each day getting filthy in the yard doing chores on Oldtimer. Dining out was a must for dinner and our favorite place was at the campground. Les Harlequins which is run by Claire and Jean-Michele was a delight and delicious. We have also decided that the Boulangerie Bazzali has the best croissant in France.


We only came away with one shipyard story - but now we have our very own story. The first day we were there we were brought out of the water and placed next to a 70 meter working barge. This barge is the work of a demented handy man - we think. The wheelhouse is an old truck cab. At any rate they decided after taking us out of the water to pressure wash this old barge. Yes you got it - we ended up covered in slime and muck and anything else that came off the bottom of this other barge. It was pretty disgusting. We then spent from 5:30pm, when they finally finished spraying, until 8:00pm washing and scrubbing Oldtimer. A huge mess.

We left the yard on time the following Monday, very pleased with Atelier Fluvial and moved Oldtimer back onto the "steps" in town. At lunch time that day a rental boat moored onto us and out came an Alp Horn which was such a treat. A lovely Swiss concert.
After a few days we left and went to the Bourgogne Canal through only 2 locks to a very quiet mooring . After about 2 days (without services at this particular mooring) we discovered that we really are in need of new batteries - so back to St Jean de Losne we went. We arrived to find a carnival on the Quai and everyone gearing up for a big weekend of partying. So we moored up the Saone under the trees while we decided what to do about our batteries.
A few days later we decided to move on to Seurre again. We left the morning of the blessing of the ships. It was to be a busy day in St Jean and we were ready for some peace and quiet. The wind was blowing a lot - perhaps 25-30k. We were excited to be on the Saone going with the current and with the wind at our rear. This would be a fast trip. In fact too fast. We arrived at the first and only lock that we needed to do that day and the green light was on for us to enter. What a treat. We moved up just as the eclusier changed the light and began shutting the doors. There was plenty of room in the ecluse for us - we have heard from others this is an elusier who often does this-shuts the doors in your face. All that was fine and doable except that we had anticipated getting into the lock, when we saw the green light, so we were quite close. The ecluses on the Saone and other rivers are quite large and as they fill or empty they create a great current/draw on the uphill side which we were on. So after a frantic few minutes that felt like a lifetime as we moved closer and closer to the ecluse with not enough power to back up and away because of the pull of the water we finally were able to get onto what is called a dolphin. A dolphin is just a large post in the water with some tie off points. We were only able to get one rope on and hang there to wait out the emptying and filling of the ecluse. Not an easy task and stressful to say the least. Finally the ecluse stopped draining and filling and we were able to enter. I think we were so done in by the stress that we did not have the energy , after mooring, to walk back to the ecluse and give our two cents worth to the eclusier. Probably better anyway.

Seurre was again a treat so we decided to stay for another week with the swans. Okay, I do have fun pictures of the swans - for another blog at another time.