On to the Saone River, St. Jean de Losne and the Bourgogne Canal

The Saone River

Our trip from Verdun sur Doubs was unremarkable. The biggest change being that on the River there is the wide open vista that you do not have on the canals. In addition we were going upstream so the current has an effect - slow. Barges are very slow as is but going against the current , with our boat anyway, is really similar to being an "escargot".

We made it in good time , though, to St. Jean de Losne. We arrived right in the middle of a Dragon Boat Race. We carefully picked our way through the boats and moored as a double with a wonderfully generous and welcoming English couple. It is always amusing when you need to moor onto someone else's boat because the Port is full - the occupants are often missing or suddenly find they need to do something down below in their boat. So it is with great relief and gratitude when someone makes the effort to welcome you to tie up to their boat. This is a rare moment in time on the Saone in St Jean de Losne.We were actually, for a few hours ,alone on the Port steps.

Our time in St Jean de Losne was spent fetching parts and pieces for the boat. St Jean is the nautical center for the inland waterways of France and one of the few places you can find all those bits and pieces. We also arranged to have our boat hauled out next summer, on June 1st, so that the bottom can be checked. It is a normally scheduled event with barges every 5 years or so. While the boat is out of the water they pressure wash the bottom, check the thickness of the bottom, if all is well they recoat the bottom with anti-fouling paint and replace the annodes. St. Jean de Losne is also known for its great butcher so we had a chance to visit him.

Five days later, with a quick stop at the bunker boat for fuel, we moved onto the Bourgogne Canal. The distance to Dijon requires an overnight stop and just as well as the weeds and algae in this canal are monumental. The Eclusier stated it was a "catastrophe." After each ecluse we had to put the boat in reverse in order to clear the propeller of all the stuff wrapped around it. Then on to Dijon where we waited for my brother Peter and his wife Michele to arrive from California by way of Switzerland. Dijon is a small big city. Lots of old and beautiful buildings, squares with cafes and lots of tourists just like us. The Port in Dijon is mostly reserved for hotel boats but there is a lot of mooring for others. We enjoyed our stay and stocked up the boat with provisions as we have been told there is little available on the Bourggne.
















The top picture is a Chapel on the inside of the Tourism Office Building in Dijon and the bottom picture is of the facade of the Notre Dame Cathedral in Dijon.


As we left Dijon we had one of those days on the canal. Another experience which is funnier now than then. Thank goodness Michele and Pete were with us to help see the humor in what was happening. The Eclusier , who was not very friendly to start with, decided after about 3 ecluses that a 20 meter boat needed to join us in the ecluses. The Eclusier was in a hurry to leave so as the 2 boats, which when stern to bow filled the entire Ecluse with no room to spare ,entered the ecluse he opened the sluices/paddles and the water was rushing into the ecluse, the back doors were not yet even closed and the 20 meter boat only had one line on a bollard and our lines were not yet in the proper place to handle this ecluse with this other boat. So the result was total chaos, the 20 meter boat hit us(our stern) at least 2 times. As we later discovered the owner of the 20 meter boat did not know how to handle the boat's ropes in an ecluse. The Eclusier who was equally the problem told us if we didn't like having our boat rammed we could "continue tomorrow". So after a very long discussion with Eclusier, calling on all our skills at speaking French, we put the other boat in front for the next several ecluses (12 to be exact). That was not to be the end of a strange day. As we rounded a corner after another few ecluses there on the left side was parked a large hotel boat ( they cannot moor directly on the bank because the canal is too shallow so they are out about 3 feet ) and directly across from him on the other side is another large peniche known as the Opera Peniche ( they go around giving comedic opera performances in the canal ports). We are about 4 meters wide and I can promise you there was not more than 6 inches between us and these two large barges. To add to the drama of this event they informed us that they hoped we were not too deep as they had strung an electric cable between the boats in the water. What were they thinking???? They suggested that we stop our engine as we passed them - now how do you pass without an engine providing forward momentum. So any way we passed safely thanks to Eric's fabulous captaining. At the end of these 12 ecluses with the 20 meter boat - the owner gave us a beautiful bottle of Mersault. Amazing how easy we are to please. As a caveat to all this ranting about the Ecluses and Eclusiers we have to say that with very few exceptions the Eclusiers are charming, helpful, polite and people we look forward to meeting during the summer.

We had a great three more days with Michele and Peter. Bike rides, vide greniers, castles, chateaux , good dinners and were able to keep up with The Tour de France on TV. Michele and Peter left us in Pont sur Ouche where we stayed for a few more days.

Pete and Michele taking shelter from the rain (bottom). Eric and Michel deciding which way to go ?(top) And then there is Tulah and her cart.

Chateau de Malain - near Pont de Pany

on the Bourgogne Canal .

This ancient chateau is being restored by

volunteers and archeologists.